What a nice cycling day! Finally no wind, downhill most of the time, paved road but not too good so there wasn’t too much traffic, and the GREAT views!
We started the day quite early (but not as early as I’d have liked) since everybody told us it was hotter from here downwards. It is true, but it’s still not that hot. Anyway, stopping at 11 or 12 seems like a good idea. You can re-start from 16 onwards.
The area is full of great camping spots and lakes/rivers to refresh or even swim. We saw lots of locals doing so. There’re lots of shops and “restaurants” as well, which makes it even nicer. The road is broken here and there, but going downhill as we were it didn’t feel bad at all (and it shouldn’t feel like that when going uphill neither).
One of the spotlights is, obviously, seeing Afganistan. It’s increadible how different life can be at the other side of the river: “their” road is completely unpaved (but would make a BRILLIANT mountain bike route without saddlebags), no electricity at all, almost no car and everybody doing long distances on foot or on a donkey… Yep, it looks like another century. You might not notice this if you just drive by fast, so just pay attention to those little details that will tell you how different that country is.
We stopped in Rhugan because we were quite lazy, I guess. There was a nice homestay that tried to charge us 10USD per person but got 5 in the end, some nice bars in town and, even if it’s not the greatest place on earth, a nkce atmosphera overall.