We a long day in front of us. More than 100 kms, mostly downhill but slightly uphill sometimes, but overall an easy ride. Just one problem: yep, I’m sure you had it right. The wind. Again.
The landscape changes completely here. Towns appear everywhere, the river creates some great green places, there’re lots of streams everywhere and great camping spots can be found. There’s a point where it looks like one long unending town. It’s VERY nice here!!
We stopped.at km 60 for food (just a shop, no restaurant). Some policemen, quite bored, popped around and took some pictures with us. Then, still bored, they said our GBAO permits were not valid in that area. Bullshit, obviously. They only wanted some money. They told us to go back and take the route through Ishkashim. We obviously were not going to do that, but we pretended we were going to. The second they saw us on the road, they forgot their game and they let us go by. Policemen. It’s the same EVERYWHERE.
Anyway, this incident didn’t spoil a great cycling day through some great roads!!
Last 20 kilometers before Khorog are the worst ones. First, truck traffic increases. The uphills are steeper. People drive like crazy. And the views are nice but not so much. In the end, you just want to get to the “city”.
I’d recommend 2 places to sleep, only if you’re looking for some quiet place to stay:
Pamir lodge, where you can camp or sleep on the terrace for 6 usd (cheapest option in town). Wifi, hot water and a “normal” toilet included 🙂
Serena Hotel. Expensive (very!) but you can camp there as well. The views are superb though! As a bad side, it’s pretty far away from the centre, on the road towards Dushanbe.
Oh, and Khorog is nice. Not great, but nice. You’ve got a little bit of everything, including a great publoc and free swimming pool!