We had some 140 km between the lake and Murgab (next town), so we knew we were not going to make it (we could, really, but there was no point in rushing). The question was: where do we camp? Before or after the pass we had that day and that was, more or less, half way through?
Some rainy weather answered that for us. The Pamirs are supposed to be very dry, but this day was quite messy weatherwise. It didn’t rain a lot, but it was always menacing.
First 36 kms are almost flat. The wind changes constantly but it’s mostly opposite. The views may be nice, but in a way it felt really sad to leave the lake and its wonderful environment. Well, there will be some other nice places, we hoped…
After kilometer 36 we went offroad. No more asfalt for us. But the worse was that it was VERY bumpy, so it wasn’t fun at all. Add that to a menacing weather (the few drops we got were in the form of snow), and you’ll understand why we decided to camp on the first nice spot we found.
We had a map that said there was a town there (Muzkol), by the way. Of course, a lie. Maybe there was at some point in history but not now. In a way, that was for good, since it was a great camping night!