Cold!! I’m freezing as I’m writing this!!!
The day started cold-ish, and Huamachuco proved to be a city that didn’t like to get up early. So I left late as well, around 9ish, expecting a cold day.
Nothing like that at all: a bright sun in the sky was warming everything by then. So after initial 10 flat kilometers, I started to sweat uphill (and regretted being wearing warm cycling pants below my knees).
The valley is quite nice in the beginning. The uphill is just ok, a mixture between the views of the cerros and the intense mining of the region. The last time you can see this valley is the place where very often gets foggy, so careful there. Recommended to do this part early. I didn’t, though, and it was still clear (but cloudy, in comparison with the sun in the valley I had just left).
This part is pure Páramo. I really liked it but you must like this kind of terrain to appreciate it; otherwise it can be boring. The rock formations and sharp peaks in the distance made it very nice to me. The lakes towards the end, right before the last climb, were superb, even without bright skies.
The problem was the cold. It got quite cold here. The problem got worse the moment I stopped or went downhill. By the main lakes there’s a downhill before the last uphill; my legs didn’t want to work after the downhill part, that’s how cold it got. There aren’t many places to stop, so I did it towards the end, at the top, right before the downhill. A tea and a sandwich, and by the time I finished I was cold as can be. So be careful.
I decided to stop in Quiruvilca because some truck drivers told me it’s nicer than Shorey, just some few kilometers down the road. I didn’t know for sure at the time, but now I can tell you it was the best advice ever!! There’s absolutely nothing in Shorey and it feels quite depressing too. I liked Quiruvilca. Feels weird to be in a mining town. Everything is related to mining (rocks and coal, that’s what they mainly get here). You can get to know some of their demands against current government for its mistreating of mining and its workers as well. But for being a very small town, it’s quite lively. And cold. I wanted to
A. Sleep above 4000m for the first time in this trip
B. Feel the cold a little bit.
I had done both now. Time for a warmer weather? Maybe…